Ravello

Now we’re back to Blighty and back to reality, it’s time for a little reflection on a magical holiday & wedding in Ravello. We’ve been lucky enough to visit Italy 4 times in the past 4 years, with trips to Florence, Venice, Tuscany and now the Amalfi coast, and always return home a bit heavier but much happier.

Start of steep staircase from Ravello

Our friends John & Suzette were getting married at the Hotel Palumbo in Ravello, so we decided to combine the wedding with a mini-break, flying out to Naples from Gatwick on the Thursday and returning on the Tuesday. We were up before sunrise to catch our 8am flight, and Rosie decided to chat to us rather than snooze on the car journey to Gatwick’s Long Stay Car Park. We met Buffy & Daf after going through the ordeal of airport security with a baby, and had an obligatory holiday beer before boarding the flight. Then a few whiskys on the journey courtesy of BA.

Amalfi coastline at Minori

Thanks to our combined efforts, we managed to contain Rosie on the 2hr flight, with a mix of CBeebies magazines, bottles of water and wrestling moves. Meanwhile, Fearne Cotton and Sophie Ellis-Bextor were travelling in style at the front of the plane. At Naples airport, we were met by our taxi driver and whisked out of the sprawling mass of Naples, and up into the Lattari mountains, where we were given some local knowledge about the lemons, horse chestnuts and grapes that grow all about. Just under an hour later and €130 lighter we arrived at Casa Cortese, our spacious new home on the outskirts of Ravello. 

Buffy, Daf & Rosie on the terrace

Straight away it was obvious that the main advantage of Casa Cortese would be its huge terrace, with spectacular views of terraced lemon groves and the Amalfi coastline. As with many buildings in Ravello, our villa was reached by descending or climbing tons of steps, so we took some time to soak up the view and sun after lugging suitcases + pushchair down the steps. Later, after a short shopping trip for provisions and the arrival of the rest of the gang (Niz, Varsh & Kaffers), we had some takeaway pizza from Cumpa Cosimo and shared a bottle of rosé. 

Ravello crew go boating

Along with the scenery and good food, our first night became even more memorable when we heard a loud explosion from inside the house. Our first thought was an intruder with a shotgun (obviously), so we were all on high alert, but luckily Niz soon found the explanation - an exploded prosecco bottle in the freezer compartment. Then just as we were settling down to another drink, we faced more disruption - an invading cat - and Ruth bravely blocked the doorway to protect her sleeping Rosie. This was all good preparation for the constant noise of cannons firing and fireworks going off at random times over the weekend, in celebration of the Madonna. 

Decorations above a door on the steps to Minori

On two occasions, we decided to walk to the nearest beach in Minori, which involved a treacherous walk down hundreds of steps in the searing heat. Along the way, we scrumped some lemons and admired the view from shady spots - for Daf, Ravello is very much the Aberystwyth of Italy. Halfway down, we encountered a one-eyed, possessed cat guarding the path and it took all our collective courage to make it past. Down in Minori, we had some beach time and then lunch at Il Giardiniello restaurant, where we shared Gnocchi Sorrentina and Misto Marinato (anchovies and smoked salmon), accompanied by rosé and limoncello freebies to finish. Then it was a boat trip to Amalfi, where space is at a premium on the highly regulated beach, and the best spots are gated off for paying customers with umbrellas and sun loungers. After a refreshing dip in the Med, we had a beer and ice cream to round off the afternoon.

Rosie & Ruth enjoy the Med

That night, I did a rehearsal with John & Suzette at the Palumbo and began to grow into my new role as celebrant, even if I had to give my address next to a hot tub. All the rest of the crew, plus new arrivals James & Bethan, and later Matt, joined us for pizza & pasta at a restaurant just off the main square. We followed that by beers in the main piazza at midnight, and we took turns settling Rosie in the pushchair, with Varsh introducing her to the local cats. Drinks continued back at the ranch and we were all suffering the next day after a 5am finish. 

Much-needed refreshments at the wedding

After a day of lazing in the sun, we were all ready for the main event, John & Suzette's wedding, which took place at 5pm as the sun was setting. I arrived early to prepare for the ceremony, and things went well despite having to contest with fireworks as I started my address. Cocktails and delicious snacks - like fritti misti - followed on the hotel's balcony, before dinner at 7pm in a really stunning setting overlooking the Med, involving 5 courses and endless wine and prosecco. All this indulgence might have explained the reluctance of most people to get on the dancefloor.  

Rosie before being fed by Lady Tomato

We all had a really magical evening, and John & Suzette looked so happy. On our last full day (Sunday), we again walked to the beach at Minori, followed by boat to Amalfi and beers, and then an evening meal in Ravello. We honestly could have carried on with this daily cycle for months. On our last night we chanced on a classical concert in Piazza Fontana, so stopped for a while and soaked up the atmosphere while Rosie slept. But soon it was time to return home, and rather than a taxi back to Naples, we caught the boat from Amalfi to Salerno (very reasonable at €7.50 each) and then train from Salerno to Naples, after a decent lunch of pasta carbonara, mozzarella & pesto salad and stracetti di vitello at Line. We had fun in the taxi to our Naples hotel, stopping 3 times on the way for the driver to ask for directions, so we were glad to make it to Hotel Joyfull for our last night, a decent and cheap (€44) option near the airport. We helped ourselves to one last pizza before an early flight the next morning, and returned home on a real high.

Happy couple at Hotel Palumbo