Just a little write-up of the latest UK staycation for the ever more cash-strapped Redfords. After spending 4 days on a stag do in Pembrokeshire, I took the train north via Swansea to meet Ruth & Rosie in Manchester, who had driven the same day from Norfolk. We spent a lovely evening and relaxing morning at Matt and Emma's home in the suburbs of Cheadle Hume, where we enjoyed a fry-up and some fun playtime with Rosie and James. We then set off in the car around midday, and after a row about directions, finally made it to the M6 and stopped off at Morrisons in Kendal on the way. After picking up some wine and lunch bits, we made it into the Lakes proper, where we enjoyed an hour of stunning scenery on the way to Lowthwaite B&B near Ullswater.
Set in a remote backwater, the B&B is built with whitewashed stone but has the warm tones of Africa inside, a legacy of owner Jim's past as a walking guide in Tanzania. Many of the wood furnishings were sourced from an abandoned African riverboat, and the carved sideboard in the dining room was most impressive. We enjoyed relaxing, before an evening meal in Dockray at the Royal Hotel, where my meal choice was venison en croute, Rosie's chicken nuggets. In the evening, we sat on the terrace outside by the brook, and enjoyed a bottle of red, which was almost chilled by the time we finished it owing to the cool Lakes air.
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| Rosie comes for the ride round Ullswater |
Set in a remote backwater, the B&B is built with whitewashed stone but has the warm tones of Africa inside, a legacy of owner Jim's past as a walking guide in Tanzania. Many of the wood furnishings were sourced from an abandoned African riverboat, and the carved sideboard in the dining room was most impressive. We enjoyed relaxing, before an evening meal in Dockray at the Royal Hotel, where my meal choice was venison en croute, Rosie's chicken nuggets. In the evening, we sat on the terrace outside by the brook, and enjoyed a bottle of red, which was almost chilled by the time we finished it owing to the cool Lakes air.
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| Time for bed at Lowthwaite B&B |
Next morning, Jim's wife Tine served breakfast, which consisted of halloumi and mushrooms for me and then, after eating, Jim recommended a 5-mile route for our planned ramble. Our afternoon consisted of an amazing walk by Aira Falls, with stunning views over Ullswater and warm sunshine. The only drag was the 20-month toddler on my back, who may soon be too large for the back carrier. After a few pitstops and packed lunch overlooking the full panorama of the Lakes, we made it back to Dockray for a well-deserved pint at the Royal Hotel. To recuperate, we both enjoy a bath in the afternoon, followed by a perfunctory evening meal at Herdwick Inn. Then, after putting Rosie to bed, it was more drinks on the terrace, where we met a couple of ex-accountants heading to Scotland for the golf, and spent most of the evening chatting.
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| Refreshing post-walk pint |
Next morning, it was a full English for me, and pancakes with bacon and maple syrup for Ruth. We then packed the car and drove via Grasmere to Windermere, stopping at Booths for a BBQ, breakfast and booze shop for our weekend in the caravan. Then we drove to White Cross Bay Marina to find our caravan, courtesy of the family of Ruth's soon to be sister-in-law Hannah, and unpack before I drive back to Windermere to pick up Mark at the train station. He texts me en route to say he missed his connection, then another text 10mins later to say he'll be 15mins! Rosie enjoys meeting "Gark" (as she christens him) and we go to the Lake for a dip. Evening beers on the terrace in the warm sunshine, then I fire up the BBQ and we eat spicy chicken wings, lamb burgers and chipolatas, with salad and wine.
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| Ruth and Mark on the caravan terrace |
On Saturday we have a chilled morning, and I cook a lovely fry-up including bacon, eggs, mushrooms and potato scones. Ruth then drives to the shops in Windermere after putting Rosie down for a nap, while Mark & I watch Billy Liar, an enjoyable comedy from the 60s starring Julie Christie. Then it's a spot of lunch before we all drive to the church in Grasmere, stopping for a pint at the Swan Inn. Our friends Matt & Katie were tying the knot at Our Lady of Wayside church, a lovely lakeside setting among rolling hills, and for the service Mark & I squeezed into a pew near the front while Ruth waited outside with a restless Rosie. Really beautiful ceremony conducted by a witty Irish Catholic priest, who seals the deal in good time.
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| Outside Our Lady of the Wayside Church |
Then we drive from the pub to Windermere Boat Club, and the 4 of us enjoy some Pimms overlooking the lake, before Ruth & Rosie have to head home for bedtime. Mark & I move on to red wine, and then head to our table (each is themed by exotic travel destination, ours is "Colombo") where I'm flanked by Henry, a music journalist, and Mark + a Glaswegian couple. Very enjoyable evening, charcuterie plate, followed by buffet with various meats and (... not sure!), must have been pissed. Dance the night away, then jump in the cab, offend the driver, who then puts up Oasis at full volume (I made a joke about Northerners) and drives like a maniac. We somehow make it back to the caravan safely.
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| The beautiful couple in a stunning setting |
Sunday involves a busy start to the day, packing the car, dropping off Mark at Windermere train station and tidying the caravan. We break up the day with a walk in Troutbeck with the wedding party, and have a good chat with a couple from Epping Forest. Back at a very busy Queen's Head pub, we decide against lunch with everyone and opt for the Little Chef in Ings instead. Chicken burger for me, not great but does the job. Then Ruth does the first leg via the M6 to Watford Gap, and I do most of the M1 home via Dartford Bridge. Slow, traffic-heavy journey but we're finally home just before 10pm.
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